Whisk the water, 3 tablespoons milk, and 2 tablespoons bread flour together in a small saucepan. Break up every flour lump before heating.

Stir over medium heat for 2 to 4 minutes, scraping across the bottom as the mixture thickens. The finished paste should hold visible tracks wherever the spoon or spatula passes.

Scrape the paste into the vessel you’ll use for kneading: a large bowl, stand mixer bowl, or bread machine bucket. It will still be hot, ready for the cold milk in the next stage.

Pour the cold dough milk over the paste to bring it toward lukewarm, then mix in the remaining dough ingredients and knead by hand, bread machine, or mixer, allowing about 8 to 10 minutes at medium-low mixer speed. Weigh the flour or spoon it gently into a measuring cup and level it; the finished dough should feel smooth and soft, with some tackiness and slight clinging to the bowl.

Round the dough, place it in a lightly greased bowl, and cover it for a 1 to 1 1/2-hour rise. Look for a noticeably puffy ball rather than insisting it double in size.

Beat the softened cream cheese with the filling sugar, lemon zest, and pinch of salt. The mixture should look smooth, without firm cream cheese lumps.

Work in the freeze-dried raspberries and filling flour, crushing the berries as you mix. Distribute the fruit throughout so each portion carries berry flavor.

Ease the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface, press out the gas gently, and form four round portions of about 170g each. Keeping the portions similar in size helps create an even ring.

Cover the rounds and leave them undisturbed for 10 minutes. This rest lets the dough relax before rolling.

Fit parchment into a 9-inch springform pan or a 9-inch round cake pan at least 2 inches deep, then lightly grease the paper. The lined bottom will help release the finished loaf.

Roll one portion into a rectangle measuring 6 inches across and 12 inches long. If it contracts, work on another portion for about 2 minutes before returning to the relaxed dough.

Scoop one-quarter of the filling onto the rectangle’s upper half, using about 2 heaping tablespoons or 50g. A tablespoon cookie scoop can help divide the filling evenly.

Orient the 12-inch sides vertically and spread the filling across the top 6 to 7 inches, leaving 1/4-inch side margins and the bottom 5 to 6 inches uncovered. If spreading drags the dough, microwave the filling for 15 seconds, stir, and repeat only as needed until it spreads easily.

Slice the bare lower section into parallel strips with a bench knife or chef’s knife. Aim for even widths between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch for the fine yarn effect.

Turn both long side edges inward and flatten the folds with a gentle pat. These borders help contain the filling as you roll.

Roll from the filled upper edge toward the fringe to form a log about 6 inches long. The narrow strips should wrap over the log’s exterior.

Pat the strip ends lightly against the log, then set it seam-side down against the pan’s outer wall. The fringe should sit snugly without stretching or squeezing the roll.

Shape the other three portions in the same way and arrange them around the pan’s perimeter. Together, the four logs should form a complete circle.

Set the oven to 350°F. Let it preheat while the shaped loaf completes its final rise.

Cover the pan and let the loaf rise for 60 to 75 minutes. The rolls should look puffy before brushing and baking.

Use a light touch to brush the remaining milk over the risen loaf. The delicate ridges should retain their puffiness rather than flatten beneath the brush.

Bake for 28 to 32 minutes, checking the center with a digital thermometer for this recipe’s target of at least 190°F. The top should also have a golden-brown finish.

Let the loaf cool in its pan until it is firm enough to move, then transfer it to a rack to cool completely. Handle the tender ring carefully so the rolls stay together.