Add the fresh tomatoes, onion, garlic, jalapenos, cilantro, lime juice, 2 teaspoons ground cumin, 2 teaspoons sugar if using, and salt to a food processor, then pulse in short bursts until the mixture looks finely chopped and evenly combined. The pieces should look small and loose, with visible texture still left in the bowl.

Add the crushed San Marzano tomatoes and diced green chiles, then process briefly until the salsa is mostly smooth but still has a little texture; taste and add more cumin or sugar if you want before chilling until serving. Stop as soon as the salsa looks spoonable and cohesive, because one moment later it can slip from chunky dip into watery soup.