Beat the softened cream cheese with the lemon zest, sugar, and fresh lemon juice in a bowl, then transfer the mixture to a Ziploc baggie and snip off one corner. The filling should look smooth and glossy, with no firm bits of cream cheese remaining.

Place one egg roll wrapper in front of you as a diamond, with a point facing you, then pipe a line of filling across the lower center and top it with approximately 10 cherries. Leave a clear border around the filling so the wrapper can close without squeezing fruit toward the edges.

Moisten the wrapper edges with water, fold and roll it firmly into a sealed packet, then leave it to stand for 3 to 4 minutes. The seam should feel lightly tacky and closed rather than loose or slippery before it goes into the oil.

Heat the oil to about 350°F and fry the rolls in small batches for about 5 to 6 minutes. Look for steady bubbling and a deep golden-brown crust with small crisp blisters before serving warm.